Thursday, November 8, 2007

Obagi Update Part III

So I came back to the United States, went to the Open House at the local medical spa, got tons more information and encouragement from the Obagi rep (Nota Bene: Do not take what a sales representative says about his/her product as gospel. Ever. Do your own research, or proceed at your own peril.)

Anyhoo, so I thought, what the heck, I'll try it. I paid a lot of money for it, might as well check it out. Plus, I had a more stable schedule and could devote the time necessary to do the whole procedure, both A.M. and P.M. Also, my work schedule is limited to 1 day a week, and while my freelancing requires me some out-of-the-house time for interviews, those are fairly minimal, so I could schedule those at more convenient times when my face wasn't so sensitive. Easy peasy, right?

Whatever.

I did the P.M. routine the night after I returned home from the Open House, a Thursday. It took about fifteen minutes to do the whole routine:
  • Foaming Gel cleanser for Normal/Oily Skin
  • Toner
  • 1/2 gm of Clear
  • 1/2 gm of Blender mixed with 1/2 gm Age Defying Cream (the .1% Tretinoin)
  • Triseryl Eye serum
I waited about 5 minutes between the Clear step and the Blender/Tretinoin step. Also, my Belo derm had prescribed 1 gm of Clear and Blender, but I cut it in half not only to save on the product (did I mention that this was super-expensive) but also because the sales rep and the aesthetician at the local medi-spa had suggested to use it sparingly. If this kit is gonna last me 4-6 months (as the sales rep said it should), I'll have to be conservative with dispensing the stuff.

The next morning, I went through the A.M. routine:
  • Foaming Gel Cleanser
  • 1/2 gm Clear
  • 1/2 gm Exfoderm
  • Triseryl Eye serum
  • Healthy Skin Protection SPF 35
Again, I cut the original prescribed "dose" of 1 gram for both the Clear and Exfoderm in half, dispensing only half a gram for each. Also, I was pretty liberal with the sunblock, slathering it on my face. I only got a small tube of it, but sunblock is something you should never ever ever skimp on, especially when your skincare regimen involves products that will increase your skin's sun sensitivity.

I did the treatment through Saturday evening, faithfully following each step and making sure that I had plenty of sunblock each day.

As early as Friday afternoon, I noticed that my skin had become noticeably drier, and the familiar redness had returned. I knew that I was going to be at work on Monday, but I figured I could just apply makeup to cover up the ruddiness if it hadn't dissipated yet. By Saturday, however, the flaking and peeling had increased considerably, and the redness had only intensified. The flaking was concentrated on my chin and around my mouth, but the redness was all over my face.

By Sunday morning, the flaking had migrated to the lower part of my cheeks. In the meantime, I had done more research on the Internet, searching out message boards on skincare and finding posters who shared their own experiences with Obagi. One had written that he (? she?) had experienced severe flaking and drying in cycles -- every six weeks, I think -- the whole time they were on Obagi. Most of the posters had similar experiences to mine -- some not as severe -- but just about everyone said that they had to endure the intense exfoliation for weeks during the initial phase.

I had to make a decision and realized that, no matter what the result, there was no way that I could go through even one more week of what was going on on my face, much less 6-8 (as the brochure said). So on Sunday morning, I stopped cold turkey and started washing my face with Cetaphil cleanser. I followed that up with the Obagi sunblock, really slathering it on like there's no tomorrow. On Sunday evening, I did the same, only skipping the sunblock and letting my skin breathe and recover. I went to bed praying that I would wake up on Monday morning -- the one day I would actually have to be at work -- with my face calmer and the irritation eased.

No such luck. It looked like I was going to have to go to work with my face not just beet-red, but with the entire bottom half of it -- my nose, upper lip, chin, and cheeks up to my cheekbones -- flaking in sheets.

I tried applying makeup, but it only made the flaking more obvious. I realized I would have to go to work with my face in such a state, or call in sick. Since I only go to the office once a week, it seemed a ridiculous move to skip work, so I desperately tried to arrange my short bob so that it would cover as much of my face as I could get away with, and marched off to work.

As it turned out, very few people asked me about my face, but their politeness only increased my self-consciousness. I mean, you know what they're thinking, right? What the hell happened to your face, girl? I was able to get through the day only because I forced myself to rarely look in the mirror. The two times I did, I was horrified by how much worse it had gotten. At one point, I had to peel off a five-inch sheet of flaking skin off my right cheek. Fortunately, my hair had covered it up nicely.

Monday night was more of the same, but at least I was at home. My skin continued to flake and peel, shedding in layers on my clothes, sheets, on my husband's dark scrubs. It was disgusting, to say the least, and I vowed to stay indoors the rest of the week until my skin healed.

It took several days, but it finally calmed down and returned to normal. In the meantime, I had to be extremely careful with sun exposure, making sure that I applied sunblock even though I was indoors (we have a lot of windows). Nearly a week after I stopped using the Obagi products, my skin was finally back to normal.

My theory is that, if I had switched to a lower-dose Tretinoin (i.e., .05% instead of .1%), my skin might have tolerated it better. But the sales rep and aesthetician weren't kidding when they said that I would need to "push through" the initial phase, because the side effects can be dramatic, not to mention traumatic. My skin, however, isn't so bad that it needed such powerful ammunition, and my lifestyle just cannot accommodate such a high-maintenance regimen, particularly given the side effects and their duration.

I'm back to doing my normal wash-moisturize-sunblock routine, although I continue to use Cetaphil and will do so for another week or so, until I can be sure that the inflammation has really died down. Also, I had Dermasweep done yesterday, which I'll write about another time. That requires a mild skincare routine a day or two after treatment as well.

If you do decide that Obagi is for you, my advice is to proceed with caution, and make sure your dermatologist is aware of every medication you're currently on. Ask lots of questions, and make sure you schedule a follow-up a week or two after you begin so that he/she can evaluate its progress on your skin condition. And don't forget to use tons of sunscreen while you're on this regimen. As you can see, it exfoliates your skin like mad, and that means that the very sensitive new skin that's created will be very vulnerable to any sun exposure. Especially if you're a person of color, you're going to want to head off any hyper- or hypopigmentation by being vigilant with the sunblock.

It's a very expensive regimen (about $400 or so for the entire full-sized kit, which supposedly will last 4-6 months). You'll also need to get a Tretinoin prescription (such as Retin-A or Renova), and will likely need to refill your sunblock tube several times. Because of its high price tag, complicated steps and significant side effects, make sure that this is the right regimen for you before you commit to it. The good news is that, according to the aesthetician, Obagi will give you a refund if you decide to return it. But make sure that you confirm that information with your own dermatologist so that you can make a well-informed decision.

I've heard lots of great things about Obagi, and I'm sure that it's helped plenty of people with various skin conditions develop the smooth skin they've always wanted. But it's definitely not for everyone, and if your skin problems are relatively minor, you might want to seek other options before opting for this one. If you think that it could benefit you, however, I highly recommend talking to your doctor at length about it, and then doing your own research. It could save you lots of money and, more importantly, lots of frustration.

Jolie on NBC Today

Finally! Nadine Haobsh, aka Jolie in NYC, was on this morning's Today show at ~9:40. If you didn't get a chance to see it "live," here's a link to the video on the Today show Web site:

Look flawless in five minutes
Look flawless in five minutes


Nadine looked fabulous, of course, and her makeup was flawless! I loved how they took one of the Today staffers (I assume) and timed her while she applied makeup using Nadine's tips on how to look flawless in 5 minutes. She made it look and sound so easy, and having a model demonstrate the process step-by-step (albeit in the abbreviated time frame of a morning show segment) helps in seeing how it all comes together. My own morning routine can be even shorter -- i.e., just barely enough time to brush my hair and swipe lip gloss -- but even someone like me who is sometimes afraid of makeup can do this routine! And seeing how gorgeous the Bare Escentuals foundation looks on her face (and that of the model -- I assumed she was using Bare Escentuals), I'm definitely going to have to try it out.

Thanks, Nadine! And thanks for letting us know how to pronounce your last name! (Note: Natalie Morales needs to pay better attention to her guests, or at least get some listening skills. Even after Nadine gave her the proper pronunciation of her last name, Morales still screwed it up, then laughed about it as if she were thinking, Good grief, why do you have to have such a difficult name? You'd be a better reporter if you had decent listening skills, Natalie. Seriously.)

Monday, November 5, 2007

Target Maternity line

I am sooo loving Target's maternity line by Liz Lange right now. And no, I'm about as far away from having a baby as you can get.

Maternity clothes have come such a long way since the days of Mrs. Roper-like tents and polyester pants with garter waists. The latest fashions offered by mainstream big-box stores provide both style and comfort -- not an easy thing to pull off when your belly's swelling to alarming proportions, I'm sure.

In any case, I bought this lovely, super-comfy-but-very-chic purple top in X-Small for only $14.99 a few weeks ago. Now, it's on sale on their Web site for $7.50. The scoop neckline is elegant and flattering, not to mention the empire waistline. If it's too cold to wear on its own, you can buy a larger size and wear a black, long-sleeved fitted shirt underneath. I like that it falls just at the hip and is loose at the waist without being poofy. On a non-pregnant body it looks just like a short-sleeved tunic, and a beautifully cut one at that. Also, the sleeve is banded and doesn't cut the upper arm like a cap sleeve would, so if you're concerned about exposing a less-than-slender upper arm but still want the short-sleeve, this would make a great option for you.

The color is a lovely grape, deep purple shade, but it also comes in other colors and patterns as well. I don't know how long the sale will last, but you should definitely check it out soon before they clear everything out for their winterwear.

Obagi Update Part II

So I went home after I got my Obagi Nu-Derm kit from the Belo dermatologist and was psyched about trying out the whole routine. The only hesitation I had was that, as I was traveling (my mom's house is a three-hour-bus ride-one-hour-ferry-ride-and-two-hour-jeep-ride-over-dirt roads away from Makati, the financial district of Manila where the clinic was located. Also, as her beach house had been having water problems of late and the quality of the water had been questioned, I wasn't that it was the right time to even begin such a complicated system.

Oh what the hell.

So when I finally got to the house that night, I carefully laid out the bottles and tubes on the edges of my mom's wee sink and went to work. First, the cleanser. Then toner. Then acne astringent. Then the Clear. Then the blender mixed with the Age-Defying Cream. Then, the finale: the eye-cream.

The blender/Age-Defying Cream combo was a mess. It took forever to absorb, and I wondered if perhaps I was putting on too much. It left a decidedly white sheen on my face that took me awhile to absorb. The dermatologist had told me that a gram was about a dab from the tip of my pinky finger to the first joint, but it seemed like an awful lot. Also, when I checked the ingredients of the Acne Astringent, I found that the active ingredient is Clindamyacin, a prescription-only antibiotic that can either cause colitis or induce complications in patients already with the disease.

Uhhhhh. I did tell the doctor that I had colitis. It's listed in the form that I filled out when I first came to the clinic, and I mentioned it again when I actually had the consultation. In fact, the doctor even laughed and said that it wouldn't really influence her recommendations for me.

I was super-irritated that the doctor was so irresponsible that she prescribed a medication (and yes, despite the fact that it's a skincare program, this particular product is a medication because of the presence of an prescription-grade antibiotic) with an ingredient known to be contraindicated with a disease I had told her I had. I stopped using the astringent after that first night.

The next morning, I skipped the A.M. routine because I knew that we would be traveling quite a bit around the island. My skin was already sensitive from the evening routine, and I was concerned about the possible sun exposure. Instead, I slapped on a thick layer of the Healthy Skin SPF 35 sunblock and went on my way.

I did the P.M. routine again that night, omitting the astringent. Again, the blender/Age-Defying cream combo was awfully thick and took awhile to absorb.

By the next morning (3rd day), I noticed that my skin had taken a ruddy hue and was partially peeling around my chin. I wasn't too worried, but as the day wore on, my facial skin only got redder, and the peeling had worsened. I decided that, with the traveling and all my outdoor activities, it probably wasn't the best time for me to really do the Obagi program justice. I stopped it altogether after that morning and resolved to restart it once I returned to the U.S.

The redness took only a day or so to fade, while the peeling calmed down after a couple of days. My skin was back to normal within 2 days.

Part III will conclude the Obagi update. I'll tell you more about what happened once I started doing the whole routine (AM and PM) on a regular basis, and more importantly, why I stopped it.

Thursday, November 1, 2007

Wherefore art thou, Jolie?

Is it just me, or was Nadine Haobsh (beauty blogger Jolie in NYC) not on the Today show this morning? Granted, I didn't watch the whole 3-hour marathon. I mean, c'mon, people, I may blog a wee bit too much sometimes but I do have some semblance of a life.

Anyway, if she was on the show and I just missed her, how was it? Do you have something you could put on YouTube? Pretty please?

And if she wasn't on the show, well then, Jolie, when are you going to grace 30 Rockefeller with your presence to plug Beauty Confidential?

Cheap 'n' Chic: Jeans for the Vertically Challenged

I'm short. Not short by Asian standards (I'm 5'3", which is positively statuesque in the Philippines), but definitely short when compared with my Western sisters.

In addition, I inherited a short torso/high waist from my mom's side of the family. It's fairly common in the Philippines, but the combination of short waist and short height makes it difficult to shop for clothes here in the US. Fortunately, the advent of low-rise jeans and the always-classic empire-waist dresses and tops have made it possible for those of us Asian women to dress fashionably despite being, ahem, vertically challenged.

I buy my jeans either at the Gap or at Old Navy, mainly because they make it so freakin' easy to pick them out. Unlike before, where I had to literally try on nearly every pair of jeans I liked just to see how they fell on my body, whether or not they bunched up at the waist, how long they were, etc., these two stores make trying on jeans sooooo easy-peasy. They classify them by rise, length (tall, regular and "ankle," i.e., short) and silhouette (skinny, straight, bootcut, flare, etc.), not to mention size. I know that, unless I've gained or lost a few pounds, I'm a size 4 ankle, and that I look best in a bootcut or slight flare with a just-below-the-waist or mid-rise. That makes it easier for me to narrow down my options when I'm faced with either store's massive, warehouse-like collection of denim. I'm free to choose wash, color and detail, which is the fun part of shopping for jeans.

If you're like me, with somewhat curvy hips and narrow legs, your best bet are bootcut jeans, as the slight flare at the leg will balance out the curves. In addition, the mid-rise or just-below-the-waist lengthens the torso without sacrificing leg length. (Not much, anyway, and you can make up for it by getting jeans that cover the top of your shoes -- this will lengthen your look -- and wearing heels.) And no more bunching! Very slender women can really rock in straight leg or skinny jeans. And don't let anyone tell you that skinny jeans aren't in season anymore. Check out this Manila-based fashionista and her brilliant ensemble. Tell me she's not wearing the hell out of that outfit!

Anyway, the another great thing about shopping at either store? The prices!!! I can get cool jeans for less than $50 (depending on the store), sometimes way less if there's a sale. Yeah, I totally get that Citizens of Humanity and 7 for All Mankind have awesome jeans, but they have the attendant prices to boot. No, I will not pay $200 for denim, even if they were worn by Audrey Hepburn herself (unless they can make me look like her, in which case I'm bringing my Platinum MasterCard!).

Jolie in NYC and the Today show!


Okay, fellow beauty geeks! Beauty blogger extraordinaire and author Nadine Haobsh, aka Jolie in NYC, will be on NBC's Today show today, November 1st, between 9:42 and 9:47, according to her publisher's Web site. I started reading her new book Beauty Confidential last night and am already loving it. Written in her trademark girlfriend-to-girlfriend tone, it promises to be a fun and informative beauty manual for women of all colors.

Obagi Update Part I

I started the Obagi Nu-Derm line last Thursday (October 25th) evening, right after coming home from the local medi-spa's Open House. I'd spoken to the Obagi representative there -- tall, blond, leggy...you get the picture -- and was dazzled by her confidence in the product and in its ability to give me the perfect skin I've long desired.

(Yeah, I know, she's the damn salesperson. She's supposed to be confident in the product and in its ability to work miracles. What can I say? I said I was dazzled.)

Anyhoo. So I started using the products as outlined in the instruction sheet provided for me by the dermatologist I consulted with at Belo Medical Clinic in Manila. The kit included:
  • 1 full-sized bottle of the Foaming Gel cleanser for Normal/Oily Skin
  • 1 full-sized bottle of Toner
  • 2 full-sized tubes of Clear, a 4% hydroquinone cream
  • 1 full-sized tube of Exfoderm for Normal/Dry Skin, an exfoliant
  • 1 full-sized tube of Blender, also a hydroquinone cream and intended to be mixed with Tretinoin
  • 1 small tube of Healthy Skin Protection SPF 35 sunblock (active ingredients: Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide)
  • 1 small tube of Physical UV Block SPF 32 (active ingredient: 18% [!] zinc oxide)
  • 1 pot Belo house brand Age Defying Cream with .1% Tretinoin
  • 1 small bottle Belo house brand Acne Astringent with the antibiotic Clindamyacin
  • 1 glass bottle MD Therapy Triseryl "intensive eye zone serum" (not a Belo brand)
Yes, this was going to be a complicated system.

The routine I was provided was thus:

MORNING
Wash face with gel cleanser
Apply acne astringent with cotton pad
Apply 1 gm (about the size from the tip of your pinky finger to the 1st joint) of Clear, massage into skin
Apply 1 gm of Exforderm, massage into skin
Pat Triseryl gently around eyes
Apply Healthy Skin SPF 35

EVENING
Wash face with gel cleanser
Apply toner with cotton pad
Apply acne astringent with cotton pad
Apply 1 gm of Clear, massage into skin
Apply 1 gm mixed with 1/2 gm (pea-sized) of Age Defying Cream, massage into skin
Pat Triseryl gently around eyes

If you include waiting a minute or two (or more, depending on the product just applied) between each step to let the skin absorb each product, the whole regimen took at least 15 minutes each morning and evening. Believe it or not, I actually didn't mind, as I'm of the belief that if something works for you, it's worth the effort. In addition, I've always been such a beauty junkie that the whole process felt quite, well, European. Very pampering.

Tomorrow I'll post about my first round on the Obagi treatment, in Manila, about 3-4 weeks ago.