Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Safety Tip of the Day #1

Do not, under any circumstances, apply any kind of skincare product (lotion, body spray, etc.) that has any citrus ingredients on freshly shaved skin. Not pretty. Or fun.

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

My favorite comfort "food:" BOOKS!!!

Did it! Went to Borders this morning and bought Beauty Confidential by Nadine Haobsh, All You Need To Be Impossibly French by Helena Frith Powell, and Kimora Lee Simmons' Fabulosity: What It is & How to Get It. Yippee!!! Had a horrible weekend (the details of which I will not bore anyone with, so I indulged in quite possibly the best way to soothe rattled nerves and tight muscles: book shopping! Yes, despite my obsession with all things beauty, my favorite possession of all is still my ginormous personal library.

I'll review these treasures on this site as I read them. (I'll review Powell's book on my other blog, My Inner French Girl, natch.) In the meantime, if you've already read either one (especially Kimora's, which has been out for months. Nadine's was released today.), please do let me know what you think!

Skincare Essentials

If there's one difference I noticed between American women and Asian women, it's what they emphasize in their beauty routines. It's impossible to generalize, of course, when referring to "Asian" women, as there are dozens of countries with vastly different cultures and histories and traditions that constitute that massive continent. However, I think I'm fairly safe when I say that, at least in terms of East and Southeast Asia and parts of South Asia, the foundation of beauty lies in good skincare, while in the United States, it's all about the makeup.

In Japan, Korea and the Philippines, for example, enormous amounts of money are spent on research and development with regard to skincare, specifically skin lightening. Unlike here in the U.S., where skin lightening and hyperpigmentation problems are only now being seriously addressed in over-the-counter products, it's been an obsession in "the Orient" for decades. Shiseido, Kanebo and other East Asian cosmetics giants have been at the forefront of skin lightening technology for as long as I can remember.

In the U.S., however, until recently the mantra has cleanse-tone-moisturize, but after that the real fun comes in the choice of cosmetics. Skin imperfections are addressed with proper "coverage," after which one can then layer on the paint. Hence, the dizzying array of foundations and the exploding options for women of all skintones and colors. You can choose from standard liquid, cream-to-powder, powder, and mineral. There are also primers to prep your skin for the foundation. And if you prefer lighter coverage, there are tinted moisturizers such as those offered by the cult-favorite cosmetics company Laura Mercier as well as Neutrogena.

I may have grown up partly in the U.S., but I'm definitely Asian in my beauty routines. I've been obsessed with sunscreen since my early 20's and am always on the lookout for the latest and best skincare products. I love playing with cosmetics, but like many Asian women, I believe the basics of beauty lie in proper skincare and providing a clean, smooth and flawless canvas for what comes next.

Having said that, I also know that, at least among many of my fellow Pinays, skincare has been about washing your face with soap. Three words, people: Don't. Don't. Don't. Please! Bar soap is too drying, as it strips your skin of its natural oils and can leave it very irritated. I know that oil has been demonized by the beauty industry for the longest time, but the reality is that your skin needs its natural oils in order to function properly and provide enough moisture. Washing with a cleanser targeting your skin's individual needs (whether it's oily, dry, or combination) is the only way to ensure that you're giving your skin the TLC it needs and deserves. Some good brands include Neutrogena (which mostly targets oily and blemish-prone skin), Purpose (a gentle cleanser for sensitive skin), and Olay.

Remember, too, that your skin needs can change everyday. The weather, your diet, the time of year, time of month -- all of these can influence the condition of your skin at any given time. I have a cleanser (Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control Power Wash) that I use during the warmer, more humid summers. When the weather gets dry, however, and my skin follows suit, I switch to a milder, creamier cleanser -- sometimes Purpose, other times Olay. In addition, I never use moisturizers in the summer, especially when I'm back home in Texas. Instead, I slather on a high-powered sunscreen like Neutrogena's Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunblock. Now that the air's been dry lately as we move into fall, I've been using Olay's Definity foam moisturizer, but in the winter, when humidity levels drop to single digits, I may need something more moisturizing.

And lastly, if you can only do or change one thing about your skincare program, make it the daily, adequate use of sunscreen. SPF 15 at the very least. Leave the house without your American Express card, but not your sunscreen.

Monday, October 29, 2007

Spa Open House

As I mentioned last week, I attended the Open House at the biggest medical spa in town last Thursday night. A bunch of my co-workers had promised to go as well, but as usually happens, only 3 others showed up, including my supervisor, L. who is quite possibly as vain as I am. :-)

Anyhoo, very interesting evening. I expected at the most perhaps fifty attendees, given the conservative, North Face-wearing kind of crowd here in my little town. So imagine my surprise when I turned the corner at exactly 6 pm (when the invitation indicated that the party would begin) and was confronted with at least fifty women already sipping champagne, hovering over the free samples and lined up at the free massage station. By the end of the evening (two hours later), over 200 people had come through the entrance. I even saw quite a few women of color, another surprise considering the very whiteness of this town. The aesthetician had mentioned the day before during my consultation with her that at least 30% of the practice's patients are people of color, but as she's actually a staff member I'm less inclined to believe her and would prefer to see for myself.

Almost two dozen tables offered information on everything from reflexology, aromatherapy, Jane Iredale mineral cosmetics (with free makeover), Fraxel, Obagi, La Roche Posay, Dermasweep, Nia 24, Radiesse, and a host of other dermatological services and products. I spent most of my time at the Obagi and Fraxel tables, grilling the reps about their product, checking out the brochures, and swiping whatever samples I could get away with. I got enough information from the Obagi rep -- a perky, tall, thin blonde who was just nice enough to be not-very-annoying -- to feel comfortable about starting the kit I bought while in the Philippines a few weeks ago.

The Fraxel rep, on the other hand, was a smooth-talking guy in a suit and sporting a Mediterranean-like tan. He was thorough with my questions, but I hated that, in answer to my question about potential risks and/or problems, he sort of screwed up his face and said, "You know, I've never actually heard of any problems with these. You'll have the downtime, but otherwise, these are practically risk-free."

Uh, dude, you haven't been doing your research. Are you telling me that a high-powered laser burning off layers of your skin poses no risks at all? Later that evening, a cursory search through some forums on the Internet unearthed quite a few posters who weren't very happy with the treatment. Some were pleased, while others were adamant that the minimal results they ultimately got weren't worth the downtime and considerable expense. I also found one whose downtime lasted considerably longer than the "5-7 days" that the rep claimed.

Anyway, that pretty much clinched the deal for me. As appealing as the rep and the aesthetician and the brochures all make it sound, the risk-benefit analysis just didn't work out for me. The cost for me -- 4 partial treatments -- would have been about US$1440 (or US$1100 had I been willing to pay in full the night of the Open House), quite a big amount for a freelance writer with some credit card debt left to pay. I decided that a series of microdermabrasion and chemical peels (which I've had done before, in the Philippines, and am comfortable with) would be better for me and my wallet.

But I did enjoy one consolation: I won -- Yes, I won! I, who almost never wins anything! -- a gift bag with full-sized bottles of an Obagi cleanser and day eye gel. Woooooo hoo!!! They gave away quite a few door prizes, but most of the numbers they called belonged to people who had already left. Anyway, I also did a quick makeover at the Jane Iredale table and found what appeared to be the perfect shade of mineral foundation for my skin.

In between the table-hopping I visited the food table and ate more than enough hors d'oeuvres to make a very satisfying dinner. Skipped the wine and champagne, though, as I don't drink and drive. Besides, being surrounded by all these awesome beauty products and high-tech skincare equipment gave me enough of a high!

Kimora Lee Simmons

God, I totally heart this woman. I've watched every episode of her Style/E! reality series, Kimora: Life in the Fab Lane, and my husband knows not to interrupt me -- even with the promise of food, or even books! -- when I've parked my fabulous butt in front of the telly to ogle my new heroine.

Yes, I know, she's loud and frequently obnoxious and can be very imperial towards her hapless staff. When interviewed by the media, she can come across as being utterly self-absorbed. (In last night's episode, in the middle of lecturing her children about making noise by the pool during her chat with the European press in Cannes, she interrupts herself and asks one daughter, "What do you think of my ring? It's emerald!!")

On the other hand, she's also very strong-willed, fiercely intelligent, financially and sartorially savvy, and knows how to work a room. People (like myself) gravitate towards her because of that magnetic charisma that brought her model superstardom and a marriage to one of the wealthiest impresarios in music. Above all, she knows what she wants and is not afraid to get it. That's something that can be said of many, many ambitious women who've "made it," but how many do you know who've made it looking as fabulous as she does? And really, how many of them are Asian-American?

The most prominent Asian-American women I know -- and by "prominent" I mean those who are household names, not powerful but otherwise unknown to the average American on the street, like Avon CEO Andrea Jung -- can be counted in one hand: Connie Chung, Margaret Cho, Lucy Liu, Lisa Ling, and....uh....if you think of another, let me know. They're all in entertainment in one way, shape or form, but KLS has made it in the brutal world of the fashion industry. She started out modeling but has since held her own as the CEO of the Baby Phat empire. Word has it that the company is worth US$750 million. That's a lot of bling for KLS and her two precocious babies.

Yes, I would love to be like her. Hell, I'd love to have her money and power and her f***-you attitude. She's an intriguing mix of no-bulls*** CEO and doting mom, and watching her command her troops to meet her exacting standards of perfection is great fun, as it's not often you see a beautiful woman actually working on TV. I would never want to actually work for her (while assistant Mallory's job seems positively glamorous and fun, especially on the yacht in Cannes, I would probably suffer a massive stroke while running around looking for double-sided tape in some French village, worried as I would be about missing my deadline and having to face KLS' legendary wrath. And those arched eyebrows! Eeeek!!), but on the other hand it's a fabulous way to see a woman -- and a towering Asian-American woman at that -- demand what she wants and make no apologies for it.

Saturday, October 27, 2007

A Favorite Blog

JolieinNYC is the blog of twentysomething (?) former beauty editor Nadine Haobsh, who was summarily fired from her job at a major women's glossy after it was revealed that she was Jolie. She's since reinvented herself as an author, blogger and image consultant working with global companies. You go, girl!

Anyhoo, her blog is just fun to read (she has MySpace and Facebook accounts) and gives lots of tips on the latest beauty products. She also harbors a curious fascination with Jessica Simpson.

Her new book, Beauty Confidential, comes out on October 30th. I think she'll be appearing on NBC's Today Show on November 1st, for those of you living in North America. Should be fun to watch. In the meantime, I'm going to try and grab a copy so that I can review it here ASAP.

Erasing Ethnicity

I know I've written before about using a lightening/whitening cream, but I use it primarily to even out skin tone from years of sporadic acne and hyperpigmentation. I happen to really like being Mahogany, hence the name of this blog, despite the insatiable hunger among women in Asia to be super-white.

Please please please, for the love of all women of color, don't succumb to this. Or this. With regard to the latter, I saw an episode of some evening program when I was in Manila whereby this attractive young woman had bought an over-the-counter glutathione product (I think they were pills). The reporter said that it was the "2nd leading brand" in the country for glutathione products, so the woman was confident that they were safe. Not too long after she ingested them, however, her skin -- which had been otherwise been clear and fair, judging from the Before photos the report showed -- began to turn red and develop what looked to be severe acne and/or blisters. Her entire face erupted in these horrible red lesions, and it was obvious that she would never look quite the same way again.

It's just way too risky to be taking anything that's not only unnecessary, but unproven for long-term use. (Yes, I know that the doctor quoted in the above article said that glutathione is "relatively safe" and that "there have been no reports of adverse reactions even with long-term use," however, she then goes on to say that in her own practice, she "personally advises her patients to choose non-invasive options if the same results can be achieved." In addition, she is quoted in a previous paragraph that "not all doctors are convinced of the safety profile of [the intravenous administration of glutathione]," a popular method in Manila for quickly achieving the whitening results patients are looking for.

I would strongly suggest anyone considering the numerous skin lightening options on the market (whether its active ingredient is hydroquinone, glutathione, kojic acid, etc.) to talk to their dermatologist first. Ask about all the risks involved, and if they're not forthcoming about it, find another doctor. As the woman in the report mentioned above found out too late, your skin is just too delicate an organ to mess around with. Not to mention that you could end up making worse what you had originally set out to "fix."

And did I mention that Mahogany is Beautiful?