Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Skincare Essentials

If there's one difference I noticed between American women and Asian women, it's what they emphasize in their beauty routines. It's impossible to generalize, of course, when referring to "Asian" women, as there are dozens of countries with vastly different cultures and histories and traditions that constitute that massive continent. However, I think I'm fairly safe when I say that, at least in terms of East and Southeast Asia and parts of South Asia, the foundation of beauty lies in good skincare, while in the United States, it's all about the makeup.

In Japan, Korea and the Philippines, for example, enormous amounts of money are spent on research and development with regard to skincare, specifically skin lightening. Unlike here in the U.S., where skin lightening and hyperpigmentation problems are only now being seriously addressed in over-the-counter products, it's been an obsession in "the Orient" for decades. Shiseido, Kanebo and other East Asian cosmetics giants have been at the forefront of skin lightening technology for as long as I can remember.

In the U.S., however, until recently the mantra has cleanse-tone-moisturize, but after that the real fun comes in the choice of cosmetics. Skin imperfections are addressed with proper "coverage," after which one can then layer on the paint. Hence, the dizzying array of foundations and the exploding options for women of all skintones and colors. You can choose from standard liquid, cream-to-powder, powder, and mineral. There are also primers to prep your skin for the foundation. And if you prefer lighter coverage, there are tinted moisturizers such as those offered by the cult-favorite cosmetics company Laura Mercier as well as Neutrogena.

I may have grown up partly in the U.S., but I'm definitely Asian in my beauty routines. I've been obsessed with sunscreen since my early 20's and am always on the lookout for the latest and best skincare products. I love playing with cosmetics, but like many Asian women, I believe the basics of beauty lie in proper skincare and providing a clean, smooth and flawless canvas for what comes next.

Having said that, I also know that, at least among many of my fellow Pinays, skincare has been about washing your face with soap. Three words, people: Don't. Don't. Don't. Please! Bar soap is too drying, as it strips your skin of its natural oils and can leave it very irritated. I know that oil has been demonized by the beauty industry for the longest time, but the reality is that your skin needs its natural oils in order to function properly and provide enough moisture. Washing with a cleanser targeting your skin's individual needs (whether it's oily, dry, or combination) is the only way to ensure that you're giving your skin the TLC it needs and deserves. Some good brands include Neutrogena (which mostly targets oily and blemish-prone skin), Purpose (a gentle cleanser for sensitive skin), and Olay.

Remember, too, that your skin needs can change everyday. The weather, your diet, the time of year, time of month -- all of these can influence the condition of your skin at any given time. I have a cleanser (Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control Power Wash) that I use during the warmer, more humid summers. When the weather gets dry, however, and my skin follows suit, I switch to a milder, creamier cleanser -- sometimes Purpose, other times Olay. In addition, I never use moisturizers in the summer, especially when I'm back home in Texas. Instead, I slather on a high-powered sunscreen like Neutrogena's Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunblock. Now that the air's been dry lately as we move into fall, I've been using Olay's Definity foam moisturizer, but in the winter, when humidity levels drop to single digits, I may need something more moisturizing.

And lastly, if you can only do or change one thing about your skincare program, make it the daily, adequate use of sunscreen. SPF 15 at the very least. Leave the house without your American Express card, but not your sunscreen.

2 comments:

Ugochi said...

oooh - this makes me want to go and wash my face :)

i'm all about sunscreen and skincare, too!

good post.

have u tried any oil cleansers? i'm in love with the ones by Shu Uemura

ok, enough ranting

later!

Beauty in Mahogany said...

No, I haven't tried any oil cleansers, but it's funny you should say that because I just read an article about just that subject, and it recommended Shu Uemura too!! I'll definitely have to try it out. I'm sadly lacking in a Sephora -- the nearest one is 300 miles away -- yeah, I'm so freakin' deprived -- but will order one online post-haste. I hadn't thought about using oil cleansers, given my oily skin, but I think that recent research is starting to show that it's not necessarily a bad thing, that cleansing oils can actually be good for sensitive skin like mine. (Did you know that the skin of women of color tends to be very sensitive, and that it's not as obvious as it is on pale skin because of the pigmentation hides it? I read something about Dr. Susan Taylor the other day where she mentions that.)

'm not much for expensive department store or boutique cosmetics, but skincare? That's an investment, baby!

Marjorie