Obagi Update Part III

So I came back to the United States, went to the Open House at the local medical spa, got tons more information and encouragement from the Obagi rep (Nota Bene: Do not take what a sales representative says about his/her product as gospel. Ever. Do your own research, or proceed at your own peril.)

Anyhoo, so I thought, what the heck, I'll try it. I paid a lot of money for it, might as well check it out. Plus, I had a more stable schedule and could devote the time necessary to do the whole procedure, both A.M. and P.M. Also, my work schedule is limited to 1 day a week, and while my freelancing requires me some out-of-the-house time for interviews, those are fairly minimal, so I could schedule those at more convenient times when my face wasn't so sensitive. Easy peasy, right?

Whatever.

I did the P.M. routine the night after I returned home from the Open House, a Thursday. It took about fifteen minutes to do the whole routine:

• Foaming Gel cleanser for Normal/Oily Skin
• Toner
• 1/2 gm of Clear
• 1/2 gm of Blender mixed with 1/2 gm Age Defying Cream (the .1% Tretinoin)
• Triseryl Eye serum
  

I waited about 5 minutes between the Clear step and the Blender/Tretinoin step. Also, my Belo derm had prescribed 1 gm of Clear and Blender, but I cut it in half not only to save on the product (did I mention that this was super-expensive) but also because the sales rep and the aesthetician at the local medi-spa had suggested to use it sparingly. If this kit is gonna last me 4-6 months (as the sales rep said it should), I'll have to be conservative with dispensing the stuff.

The next morning, I went through the A.M. routine:

• Foaming Gel Cleanser
• 1/2 gm Clear
  
• 1/2 gm Exfoderm
• Triseryl Eye serum
• Healthy Skin Protection SPF 35

Again, I cut the original prescribed "dose" of 1 gram for both the Clear and Exfoderm in half, dispensing only half a gram for each. Also, I was pretty liberal with the sunblock, slathering it on my face. I only got a small tube of it, but sunblock is something you should never ever ever skimp on, especially when your skincare regimen involves products that will increase your skin's sun sensitivity.

I did the treatment through Saturday evening, faithfully following each step and making sure that I had plenty of sunblock each day.

As early as Friday afternoon, I noticed that my skin had become noticeably drier, and the familiar redness had returned. I knew that I was going to be at work on Monday, but I figured I could just apply makeup to cover up the ruddiness if it hadn't dissipated yet. By Saturday, however, the flaking and peeling had increased considerably, and the redness had only intensified. The flaking was concentrated on my chin and around my mouth, but the redness was all over my face.

By Sunday morning, the flaking had migrated to the lower part of my cheeks. In the meantime, I had done more research on the Internet, searching out message boards on skincare and finding posters who shared their own experiences with Obagi. One had written that he (? she?) had experienced severe flaking and drying in cycles -- every six weeks, I think -- the whole time they were on Obagi. Most of the posters had similar experiences to mine -- some not as severe -- but just about everyone said that they had to endure the intense exfoliation for weeks during the initial phase.

I had to make a decision and realized that, no matter what the result, there was no way that I could go through even one more week of what was going on on my face, much less 6-8 (as the brochure said). So on Sunday morning, I stopped cold turkey and started washing my face with Cetaphil cleanser. I followed that up with the Obagi sunblock, really slathering it on like there's no tomorrow. On Sunday evening, I did the same, only skipping the sunblock and letting my skin breathe and recover. I went to bed praying that I would wake up on Monday morning -- the one day I would actually have to be at work -- with my face calmer and the irritation eased.

No such luck. It looked like I was going to have to go to work with my face not just beet-red, but with the entire bottom half of it -- my nose, upper lip, chin, and cheeks up to my cheekbones -- flaking in sheets.

I tried applying makeup, but it only made the flaking more obvious. I realized I would have to go to work with my face in such a state, or call in sick. Since I only go to the office once a week, it seemed a ridiculous move to skip work, so I desperately tried to arrange my short bob so that it would cover as much of my face as I could get away with, and marched off to work.

As it turned out, very few people asked me about my face, but their politeness only increased my self-consciousness. I mean, you know what they're thinking, right? What the hell happened to your face, girl? I was able to get through the day only because I forced myself to rarely look in the mirror. The two times I did, I was horrified by how much worse it had gotten. At one point, I had to peel off a five-inch sheet of flaking skin off my right cheek. Fortunately, my hair had covered it up nicely.

Monday night was more of the same, but at least I was at home. My skin continued to flake and peel, shedding in layers on my clothes, sheets, on my husband's dark scrubs. It was disgusting, to say the least, and I vowed to stay indoors the rest of the week until my skin healed.

It took several days, but it finally calmed down and returned to normal. In the meantime, I had to be extremely careful with sun exposure, making sure that I applied sunblock even though I was indoors (we have a lot of windows). Nearly a week after I stopped using the Obagi products, my skin was finally back to normal.

My theory is that, if I had switched to a lower-dose Tretinoin (i.e., .05% instead of .1%), my skin might have tolerated it better. But the sales rep and aesthetician weren't kidding when they said that I would need to "push through" the initial phase, because the side effects can be dramatic, not to mention traumatic. My skin, however, isn't so bad that it needed such powerful ammunition, and my lifestyle just cannot accommodate such a high-maintenance regimen, particularly given the side effects and their duration.

I'm back to doing my normal wash-moisturize-sunblock routine, although I continue to use Cetaphil and will do so for another week or so, until I can be sure that the inflammation has really died down. Also, I had Dermasweep done yesterday, which I'll write about another time. That requires a mild skincare routine a day or two after treatment as well.

If you do decide that Obagi is for you, my advice is to proceed with caution, and make sure your dermatologist is aware of every medication you're currently on. Ask lots of questions, and make sure you schedule a follow-up a week or two after you begin so that he/she can evaluate its progress on your skin condition. And don't forget to use tons of sunscreen while you're on this regimen. As you can see, it exfoliates your skin like mad, and that means that the very sensitive new skin that's created will be very vulnerable to any sun exposure. Especially if you're a person of color, you're going to want to head off any hyper- or hypopigmentation by being vigilant with the sunblock.

It's a very expensive regimen (about $400 or so for the entire full-sized kit, which supposedly will last 4-6 months). You'll also need to get a Tretinoin prescription (such as Retin-A or Renova), and will likely need to refill your sunblock tube several times. Because of its high price tag, complicated steps and significant side effects, make sure that this is the right regimen for you before you commit to it. The good news is that, according to the aesthetician, Obagi will give you a refund if you decide to return it. But make sure that you confirm that information with your own dermatologist so that you can make a well-informed decision.

I've heard lots of great things about Obagi, and I'm sure that it's helped plenty of people with various skin conditions develop the smooth skin they've always wanted. But it's definitely not for everyone, and if your skin problems are relatively minor, you might want to seek other options before opting for this one. If you think that it could benefit you, however, I highly recommend talking to your doctor at length about it, and then doing your own research. It could save you lots of money and, more importantly, lots of frustration.

Jolie on NBC Today

Finally! Nadine Haobsh, aka Jolie in NYC, was on this morning's Today show at ~9:40. If you didn't get a chance to see it "live," here's a link to the video on the Today show Web site:


Look flawless in five minutes

Nadine looked fabulous, of course, and her makeup was flawless! I loved how they took one of the Today staffers (I assume) and timed her while she applied makeup using Nadine's tips on how to look flawless in 5 minutes. She made it look and sound so easy, and having a model demonstrate the process step-by-step (albeit in the abbreviated time frame of a morning show segment) helps in seeing how it all comes together. My own morning routine can be even shorter -- i.e., just barely enough time to brush my hair and swipe lip gloss -- but even someone like me who is sometimes afraid of makeup can do this routine! And seeing how gorgeous the Bare Escentuals foundation looks on her face (and that of the model -- I assumed she was using Bare Escentuals), I'm definitely going to have to try it out.

Thanks, Nadine! And thanks for letting us know how to pronounce your last name! (Note: Natalie Morales needs to pay better attention to her guests, or at least get some listening skills. Even after Nadine gave her the proper pronunciation of her last name, Morales still screwed it up, then laughed about it as if she were thinking, Good grief, why do you have to have such a difficult name? You'd be a better reporter if you had decent listening skills, Natalie. Seriously.)

Target Maternity line

I am sooo loving Target's maternity line by Liz Lange right now. And no, I'm about as far away from having a baby as you can get.

Maternity clothes have come such a long way since the days of Mrs. Roper-like tents and polyester pants with garter waists. The latest fashions offered by mainstream big-box stores provide both style and comfort -- not an easy thing to pull off when your belly's swelling to alarming proportions, I'm sure.

In any case, I bought this lovely, super-comfy-but-very-chic purple top in X-Small for only $14.99 a few weeks ago. Now, it's on sale on their Web site for $7.50. The scoop neckline is elegant and flattering, not to mention the empire waistline. If it's too cold to wear on its own, you can buy a larger size and wear a black, long-sleeved fitted shirt underneath. I like that it falls just at the hip and is loose at the waist without being poofy. On a non-pregnant body it looks just like a short-sleeved tunic, and a beautifully cut one at that. Also, the sleeve is banded and doesn't cut the upper arm like a cap sleeve would, so if you're concerned about exposing a less-than-slender upper arm but still want the short-sleeve, this would make a great option for you.

The color is a lovely grape, deep purple shade, but it also comes in other colors and patterns as well. I don't know how long the sale will last, but you should definitely check it out soon before they clear everything out for their winterwear.

Obagi Update Part II

So I went home after I got my Obagi Nu-Derm kit from the Belo dermatologist and was psyched about trying out the whole routine. The only hesitation I had was that, as I was traveling (my mom's house is a three-hour-bus ride-one-hour-ferry-ride-and-two-hour-jeep-ride-over-dirt roads away from Makati, the financial district of Manila where the clinic was located. Also, as her beach house had been having water problems of late and the quality of the water had been questioned, I wasn't that it was the right time to even begin such a complicated system.

Oh what the hell.

So when I finally got to the house that night, I carefully laid out the bottles and tubes on the edges of my mom's wee sink and went to work. First, the cleanser. Then toner. Then acne astringent. Then the Clear. Then the blender mixed with the Age-Defying Cream. Then, the finale: the eye-cream.

The blender/Age-Defying Cream combo was a mess. It took forever to absorb, and I wondered if perhaps I was putting on too much. It left a decidedly white sheen on my face that took me awhile to absorb. The dermatologist had told me that a gram was about a dab from the tip of my pinky finger to the first joint, but it seemed like an awful lot. Also, when I checked the ingredients of the Acne Astringent, I found that the active ingredient is Clindamyacin, a prescription-only antibiotic that can either cause colitis or induce complications in patients already with the disease.

Uhhhhh. I did tell the doctor that I had colitis. It's listed in the form that I filled out when I first came to the clinic, and I mentioned it again when I actually had the consultation. In fact, the doctor even laughed and said that it wouldn't really influence her recommendations for me.

I was super-irritated that the doctor was so irresponsible that she prescribed a medication (and yes, despite the fact that it's a skincare program, this particular product is a medication because of the presence of an prescription-grade antibiotic) with an ingredient known to be contraindicated with a disease I had told her I had. I stopped using the astringent after that first night.

The next morning, I skipped the A.M. routine because I knew that we would be traveling quite a bit around the island. My skin was already sensitive from the evening routine, and I was concerned about the possible sun exposure. Instead, I slapped on a thick layer of the Healthy Skin SPF 35 sunblock and went on my way.

I did the P.M. routine again that night, omitting the astringent. Again, the blender/Age-Defying cream combo was awfully thick and took awhile to absorb.

By the next morning (3rd day), I noticed that my skin had taken a ruddy hue and was partially peeling around my chin. I wasn't too worried, but as the day wore on, my facial skin only got redder, and the peeling had worsened. I decided that, with the traveling and all my outdoor activities, it probably wasn't the best time for me to really do the Obagi program justice. I stopped it altogether after that morning and resolved to restart it once I returned to the U.S.

The redness took only a day or so to fade, while the peeling calmed down after a couple of days. My skin was back to normal within 2 days.

Part III will conclude the Obagi update. I'll tell you more about what happened once I started doing the whole routine (AM and PM) on a regular basis, and more importantly, why I stopped it.

Wherefore art thou, Jolie?

Is it just me, or was Nadine Haobsh (beauty blogger Jolie in NYC) not on the Today show this morning? Granted, I didn't watch the whole 3-hour marathon. I mean, c'mon, people, I may blog a wee bit too much sometimes but I do have some semblance of a life.

Anyway, if she was on the show and I just missed her, how was it? Do you have something you could put on YouTube? Pretty please?

And if she wasn't on the show, well then, Jolie, when are you going to grace 30 Rockefeller with your presence to plug Beauty Confidential?

Cheap 'n' Chic: Jeans for the Vertically Challenged

I'm short. Not short by Asian standards (I'm 5'3", which is positively statuesque in the Philippines), but definitely short when compared with my Western sisters.

In addition, I inherited a short torso/high waist from my mom's side of the family. It's fairly common in the Philippines, but the combination of short waist and short height makes it difficult to shop for clothes here in the US. Fortunately, the advent of low-rise jeans and the always-classic empire-waist dresses and tops have made it possible for those of us Asian women to dress fashionably despite being, ahem, vertically challenged.

I buy my jeans either at the Gap or at Old Navy, mainly because they make it so freakin' easy to pick them out. Unlike before, where I had to literally try on nearly every pair of jeans I liked just to see how they fell on my body, whether or not they bunched up at the waist, how long they were, etc., these two stores make trying on jeans sooooo easy-peasy. They classify them by rise, length (tall, regular and "ankle," i.e., short) and silhouette (skinny, straight, bootcut, flare, etc.), not to mention size. I know that, unless I've gained or lost a few pounds, I'm a size 4 ankle, and that I look best in a bootcut or slight flare with a just-below-the-waist or mid-rise. That makes it easier for me to narrow down my options when I'm faced with either store's massive, warehouse-like collection of denim. I'm free to choose wash, color and detail, which is the fun part of shopping for jeans.

If you're like me, with somewhat curvy hips and narrow legs, your best bet are bootcut jeans, as the slight flare at the leg will balance out the curves. In addition, the mid-rise or just-below-the-waist lengthens the torso without sacrificing leg length. (Not much, anyway, and you can make up for it by getting jeans that cover the top of your shoes -- this will lengthen your look -- and wearing heels.) And no more bunching! Very slender women can really rock in straight leg or skinny jeans. And don't let anyone tell you that skinny jeans aren't in season anymore. Check out this Manila-based fashionista and her brilliant ensemble. Tell me she's not wearing the hell out of that outfit!

Anyway, the another great thing about shopping at either store? The prices!!! I can get cool jeans for less than $50 (depending on the store), sometimes way less if there's a sale. Yeah, I totally get that Citizens of Humanity and 7 for All Mankind have awesome jeans, but they have the attendant prices to boot. No, I will not pay $200 for denim, even if they were worn by Audrey Hepburn herself (unless they can make me look like her, in which case I'm bringing my Platinum MasterCard!).

Jolie in NYC and the Today show!

Okay, fellow beauty geeks! Beauty blogger extraordinaire and author Nadine Haobsh, aka Jolie in NYC, will be on NBC's Today show today, November 1st, between 9:42 and 9:47, according to her publisher's Web site. I started reading her new book Beauty Confidential last night and am already loving it. Written in her trademark girlfriend-to-girlfriend tone, it promises to be a fun and informative beauty manual for women of all colors.

Obagi Update Part I

I started the Obagi Nu-Derm line last Thursday (October 25th) evening, right after coming home from the local medi-spa's Open House. I'd spoken to the Obagi representative there -- tall, blond, leggy...you get the picture -- and was dazzled by her confidence in the product and in its ability to give me the perfect skin I've long desired.

(Yeah, I know, she's the damn salesperson. She's supposed to be confident in the product and in its ability to work miracles. What can I say? I said I was dazzled.)

Anyhoo. So I started using the products as outlined in the instruction sheet provided for me by the dermatologist I consulted with at Belo Medical Clinic in Manila. The kit included:

• 1 full-sized bottle of the Foaming Gel cleanser for Normal/Oily Skin
• 1 full-sized bottle of Toner
• 2 full-sized tubes of Clear, a 4% hydroquinone cream
  
• 1 full-sized tube of Exfoderm for Normal/Dry Skin, an exfoliant
• 1 full-sized tube of Blender, also a hydroquinone cream and intended to be mixed with Tretinoin
• 1 small tube of Healthy Skin Protection SPF 35 sunblock (active ingredients: Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide)
• 1 small tube of Physical UV Block SPF 32 (active ingredient: 18% [!] zinc oxide)
• 1 pot Belo house brand Age Defying Cream with .1% Tretinoin
• 1 small bottle Belo house brand Acne Astringent with the antibiotic Clindamyacin
• 1 glass bottle MD Therapy Triseryl "intensive eye zone serum" (not a Belo brand)

Yes, this was going to be a complicated system.

The routine I was provided was thus:

MORNING
Wash face with gel cleanser
Apply acne astringent with cotton pad
Apply 1 gm (about the size from the tip of your pinky finger to the 1st joint) of Clear, massage into skin
Apply 1 gm of Exforderm, massage into skin
Pat Triseryl gently around eyes
Apply Healthy Skin SPF 35

EVENING
Wash face with gel cleanser
Apply toner with cotton pad
Apply acne astringent with cotton pad
Apply 1 gm of Clear, massage into skin
Apply 1 gm mixed with 1/2 gm (pea-sized) of Age Defying Cream, massage into skin
Pat Triseryl gently around eyes

If you include waiting a minute or two (or more, depending on the product just applied) between each step to let the skin absorb each product, the whole regimen took at least 15 minutes each morning and evening. Believe it or not, I actually didn't mind, as I'm of the belief that if something works for you, it's worth the effort. In addition, I've always been such a beauty junkie that the whole process felt quite, well, European. Very pampering.

Tomorrow I'll post about my first round on the Obagi treatment, in Manila, about 3-4 weeks ago.

Safety Tip of the Day #1

Do not, under any circumstances, apply any kind of skincare product (lotion, body spray, etc.) that has any citrus ingredients on freshly shaved skin. Not pretty. Or fun.

My favorite comfort "food:" BOOKS!!!

Did it! Went to Borders this morning and bought Beauty Confidential by Nadine Haobsh, All You Need To Be Impossibly French by Helena Frith Powell, and Kimora Lee Simmons' Fabulosity: What It is & How to Get It. Yippee!!! Had a horrible weekend (the details of which I will not bore anyone with, so I indulged in quite possibly the best way to soothe rattled nerves and tight muscles: book shopping! Yes, despite my obsession with all things beauty, my favorite possession of all is still my ginormous personal library.

I'll review these treasures on this site as I read them. (I'll review Powell's book on my other blog, My Inner French Girl, natch.) In the meantime, if you've already read either one (especially Kimora's, which has been out for months. Nadine's was released today.), please do let me know what you think!

Skincare Essentials

If there's one difference I noticed between American women and Asian women, it's what they emphasize in their beauty routines. It's impossible to generalize, of course, when referring to "Asian" women, as there are dozens of countries with vastly different cultures and histories and traditions that constitute that massive continent. However, I think I'm fairly safe when I say that, at least in terms of East and Southeast Asia and parts of South Asia, the foundation of beauty lies in good skincare, while in the United States, it's all about the makeup.

In Japan, Korea and the Philippines, for example, enormous amounts of money are spent on research and development with regard to skincare, specifically skin lightening. Unlike here in the U.S., where skin lightening and hyperpigmentation problems are only now being seriously addressed in over-the-counter products, it's been an obsession in "the Orient" for decades. Shiseido, Kanebo and other East Asian cosmetics giants have been at the forefront of skin lightening technology for as long as I can remember.

In the U.S., however, until recently the mantra has cleanse-tone-moisturize, but after that the real fun comes in the choice of cosmetics. Skin imperfections are addressed with proper "coverage," after which one can then layer on the paint. Hence, the dizzying array of foundations and the exploding options for women of all skintones and colors. You can choose from standard liquid, cream-to-powder, powder, and mineral. There are also primers to prep your skin for the foundation. And if you prefer lighter coverage, there are tinted moisturizers such as those offered by the cult-favorite cosmetics company Laura Mercier as well as Neutrogena.

I may have grown up partly in the U.S., but I'm definitely Asian in my beauty routines. I've been obsessed with sunscreen since my early 20's and am always on the lookout for the latest and best skincare products. I love playing with cosmetics, but like many Asian women, I believe the basics of beauty lie in proper skincare and providing a clean, smooth and flawless canvas for what comes next.

Having said that, I also know that, at least among many of my fellow Pinays, skincare has been about washing your face with soap. Three words, people: Don't. Don't. Don't. Please! Bar soap is too drying, as it strips your skin of its natural oils and can leave it very irritated. I know that oil has been demonized by the beauty industry for the longest time, but the reality is that your skin needs its natural oils in order to function properly and provide enough moisture. Washing with a cleanser targeting your skin's individual needs (whether it's oily, dry, or combination) is the only way to ensure that you're giving your skin the TLC it needs and deserves. Some good brands include Neutrogena (which mostly targets oily and blemish-prone skin), Purpose (a gentle cleanser for sensitive skin), and Olay.

Remember, too, that your skin needs can change everyday. The weather, your diet, the time of year, time of month -- all of these can influence the condition of your skin at any given time. I have a cleanser (Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control Power Wash) that I use during the warmer, more humid summers. When the weather gets dry, however, and my skin follows suit, I switch to a milder, creamier cleanser -- sometimes Purpose, other times Olay. In addition, I never use moisturizers in the summer, especially when I'm back home in Texas. Instead, I slather on a high-powered sunscreen like Neutrogena's Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunblock. Now that the air's been dry lately as we move into fall, I've been using Olay's Definity foam moisturizer, but in the winter, when humidity levels drop to single digits, I may need something more moisturizing.

And lastly, if you can only do or change one thing about your skincare program, make it the daily, adequate use of sunscreen. SPF 15 at the very least. Leave the house without your American Express card, but not your sunscreen.

Spa Open House

As I mentioned last week, I attended the Open House at the biggest medical spa in town last Thursday night. A bunch of my co-workers had promised to go as well, but as usually happens, only 3 others showed up, including my supervisor, L. who is quite possibly as vain as I am. :-)

Anyhoo, very interesting evening. I expected at the most perhaps fifty attendees, given the conservative, North Face-wearing kind of crowd here in my little town. So imagine my surprise when I turned the corner at exactly 6 pm (when the invitation indicated that the party would begin) and was confronted with at least fifty women already sipping champagne, hovering over the free samples and lined up at the free massage station. By the end of the evening (two hours later), over 200 people had come through the entrance. I even saw quite a few women of color, another surprise considering the very whiteness of this town. The aesthetician had mentioned the day before during my consultation with her that at least 30% of the practice's patients are people of color, but as she's actually a staff member I'm less inclined to believe her and would prefer to see for myself.

Almost two dozen tables offered information on everything from reflexology, aromatherapy, Jane Iredale mineral cosmetics (with free makeover), Fraxel, Obagi, La Roche Posay, Dermasweep, Nia 24, Radiesse, and a host of other dermatological services and products. I spent most of my time at the Obagi and Fraxel tables, grilling the reps about their product, checking out the brochures, and swiping whatever samples I could get away with. I got enough information from the Obagi rep -- a perky, tall, thin blonde who was just nice enough to be not-very-annoying -- to feel comfortable about starting the kit I bought while in the Philippines a few weeks ago.

The Fraxel rep, on the other hand, was a smooth-talking guy in a suit and sporting a Mediterranean-like tan. He was thorough with my questions, but I hated that, in answer to my question about potential risks and/or problems, he sort of screwed up his face and said, "You know, I've never actually heard of any problems with these. You'll have the downtime, but otherwise, these are practically risk-free."

Uh, dude, you haven't been doing your research. Are you telling me that a high-powered laser burning off layers of your skin poses no risks at all? Later that evening, a cursory search through some forums on the Internet unearthed quite a few posters who weren't very happy with the treatment. Some were pleased, while others were adamant that the minimal results they ultimately got weren't worth the downtime and considerable expense. I also found one whose downtime lasted considerably longer than the "5-7 days" that the rep claimed.

Anyway, that pretty much clinched the deal for me. As appealing as the rep and the aesthetician and the brochures all make it sound, the risk-benefit analysis just didn't work out for me. The cost for me -- 4 partial treatments -- would have been about US$1440 (or US$1100 had I been willing to pay in full the night of the Open House), quite a big amount for a freelance writer with some credit card debt left to pay. I decided that a series of microdermabrasion and chemical peels (which I've had done before, in the Philippines, and am comfortable with) would be better for me and my wallet.

But I did enjoy one consolation: I won -- Yes, I won! I, who almost never wins anything! -- a gift bag with full-sized bottles of an Obagi cleanser and day eye gel. Woooooo hoo!!! They gave away quite a few door prizes, but most of the numbers they called belonged to people who had already left. Anyway, I also did a quick makeover at the Jane Iredale table and found what appeared to be the perfect shade of mineral foundation for my skin.

In between the table-hopping I visited the food table and ate more than enough hors d'oeuvres to make a very satisfying dinner. Skipped the wine and champagne, though, as I don't drink and drive. Besides, being surrounded by all these awesome beauty products and high-tech skincare equipment gave me enough of a high!

Kimora Lee Simmons

God, I totally heart this woman. I've watched every episode of her Style/E! reality series, Kimora: Life in the Fab Lane, and my husband knows not to interrupt me -- even with the promise of food, or even books! -- when I've parked my fabulous butt in front of the telly to ogle my new heroine.

Yes, I know, she's loud and frequently obnoxious and can be very imperial towards her hapless staff. When interviewed by the media, she can come across as being utterly self-absorbed. (In last night's episode, in the middle of lecturing her children about making noise by the pool during her chat with the European press in Cannes, she interrupts herself and asks one daughter, "What do you think of my ring? It's emerald!!")

On the other hand, she's also very strong-willed, fiercely intelligent, financially and sartorially savvy, and knows how to work a room. People (like myself) gravitate towards her because of that magnetic charisma that brought her model superstardom and a marriage to one of the wealthiest impresarios in music. Above all, she knows what she wants and is not afraid to get it. That's something that can be said of many, many ambitious women who've "made it," but how many do you know who've made it looking as fabulous as she does? And really, how many of them are Asian-American?

The most prominent Asian-American women I know -- and by "prominent" I mean those who are household names, not powerful but otherwise unknown to the average American on the street, like Avon CEO Andrea Jung -- can be counted in one hand: Connie Chung, Margaret Cho, Lucy Liu, Lisa Ling, and....uh....if you think of another, let me know. They're all in entertainment in one way, shape or form, but KLS has made it in the brutal world of the fashion industry. She started out modeling but has since held her own as the CEO of the Baby Phat empire. Word has it that the company is worth US$750 million. That's a lot of bling for KLS and her two precocious babies.

Yes, I would love to be like her. Hell, I'd love to have her money and power and her f***-you attitude. She's an intriguing mix of no-bulls*** CEO and doting mom, and watching her command her troops to meet her exacting standards of perfection is great fun, as it's not often you see a beautiful woman actually working on TV. I would never want to actually work for her (while assistant Mallory's job seems positively glamorous and fun, especially on the yacht in Cannes, I would probably suffer a massive stroke while running around looking for double-sided tape in some French village, worried as I would be about missing my deadline and having to face KLS' legendary wrath. And those arched eyebrows! Eeeek!!), but on the other hand it's a fabulous way to see a woman -- and a towering Asian-American woman at that -- demand what she wants and make no apologies for it.

A Favorite Blog

JolieinNYC is the blog of twentysomething (?) former beauty editor Nadine Haobsh, who was summarily fired from her job at a major women's glossy after it was revealed that she was Jolie. She's since reinvented herself as an author, blogger and image consultant working with global companies. You go, girl!

Anyhoo, her blog is just fun to read (she has MySpace and Facebook accounts) and gives lots of tips on the latest beauty products. She also harbors a curious fascination with Jessica Simpson.

Her new book, Beauty Confidential, comes out on October 30th. I think she'll be appearing on NBC's Today Show on November 1st, for those of you living in North America. Should be fun to watch. In the meantime, I'm going to try and grab a copy so that I can review it here ASAP.

Erasing Ethnicity

I know I've written before about using a lightening/whitening cream, but I use it primarily to even out skin tone from years of sporadic acne and hyperpigmentation. I happen to really like being Mahogany, hence the name of this blog, despite the insatiable hunger among women in Asia to be super-white.

Please please please, for the love of all women of color, don't succumb to this. Or this. With regard to the latter, I saw an episode of some evening program when I was in Manila whereby this attractive young woman had bought an over-the-counter glutathione product (I think they were pills). The reporter said that it was the "2nd leading brand" in the country for glutathione products, so the woman was confident that they were safe. Not too long after she ingested them, however, her skin -- which had been otherwise been clear and fair, judging from the Before photos the report showed -- began to turn red and develop what looked to be severe acne and/or blisters. Her entire face erupted in these horrible red lesions, and it was obvious that she would never look quite the same way again.

It's just way too risky to be taking anything that's not only unnecessary, but unproven for long-term use. (Yes, I know that the doctor quoted in the above article said that glutathione is "relatively safe" and that "there have been no reports of adverse reactions even with long-term use," however, she then goes on to say that in her own practice, she "personally advises her patients to choose non-invasive options if the same results can be achieved." In addition, she is quoted in a previous paragraph that "not all doctors are convinced of the safety profile of [the intravenous administration of glutathione]," a popular method in Manila for quickly achieving the whitening results patients are looking for.

I would strongly suggest anyone considering the numerous skin lightening options on the market (whether its active ingredient is hydroquinone, glutathione, kojic acid, etc.) to talk to their dermatologist first. Ask about all the risks involved, and if they're not forthcoming about it, find another doctor. As the woman in the report mentioned above found out too late, your skin is just too delicate an organ to mess around with. Not to mention that you could end up making worse what you had originally set out to "fix."

And did I mention that Mahogany is Beautiful?

Archaeological dig

I had to clean out my purse this morning to make room for more stuff and was surprised at how much I was/am able to cram into a satchel that's smaller than it appears. The activity reminded me of those articles in beauty magazines where celebrities are asked the contents of their purse.

So, while I'm not a celebrity (although I did get lots of requests for my autograph from kindergarten students when I was teaching English in Japan!), I'll list my purse contents anyway (as of 10am Mountain, that is):

• Guess checkbook/wallet with US$20 and more receipts than necessary
• Small brush
• Small, pocket-sized notebook
• Large (about 10"x5" spiral notebook)
• Planner (sized roughly the same as large notebook), stuffed with papers, mail to be sent, stamps
• Sony digital voice recorder (for interviews)
• Pack of eight unused AAA batteries (for aforementioned DVR)
• Checkbook with register
• Small tube of hand lotion
• 3 pens
• Mechanical pencil
• Travel-sized tube of sunblock SPF 35
• Cosmetic bag with: Pack of face blotting papers; pack of birth control pills (ya can never be too careful); small compact mirror from Sephora (my favorite accessory!), pill dispenser for the million medications and vitamins I have to take everyday; small bottle of contact lens rewetting drops; L'Occitane lip gloss in Cherry Blossom; Chapstick; Hawaiian Tropic Sport lip balom SPF 45; nail clipper; Neutrogena LipSheer in Sunny Berry; Neutrogena Healthy Skin cream powder makeup compact in Golden Bisque; and (for some reason) a Carnival Cruise Line pin.
  

Huh. More than I thought I could fit into my bag (a Michael by Michael Kors), but also more than I should fit into the bag. (Many days I also manage to cram a paperback in there when I know I'm going to be waiting in line somewhere.) Girls, if your bag is so heavy that your shoulders start to hurt (or if you suffer from chronic shoulder and/or back pain), you might want to think about ditching some of the stuff. Or consider a backpack.

Of course, I say that, but will I actually lighten my own load? Probably not. If anything, I have my eye on a Coach business tote, perhaps something like this. As a freelance journalist/writer, my "office" is quite often my bag, so I need something that can haul more than just my wallet and keys.

I've yet to succumb to one of those "stylish" briefcases with a pull-handle and wheels, though. I used to work with plenty of guys who wheeled those around (they were engineers and consultants who really did live out of their cars half the time), and while they're functional and can carry a ton of stuff, I'm not really ready to go that way yet. Practical, but definitely not stylish. At least, I haven't found any that are. Yet.

Cate Blanchett & SK-II

Fans of Cate Blanchett's ethereal beauty will love seeing her as the new spokesmodel for SK-II, a brand you may have seen advertised in Vogue and New Beauty. It's definitely a pricey line, but I've also read good reviews of it from various celebrities.

One of these days I want to try that moisturizing mask Blanchett is so passionate about. I've seen it in their ads and in reviews in InStyle (I think) and wonder if it would be good for air travel. I find myself traveling internationally at least once a year and know how much havoc the dry, stale cabin air wreaks on one's complexion. The masks come in these little silver packets, I believe, so they would be easy to carry on-board in those little Ziploc bags we've all come to know and love

Kerry Washington Chic

I only "saw" Save The Last Dance once, and I use that term literally because at the time I was on a long-distance bus from Dar es Salaam to Moshi, a town at the foothills of Kilimanjaro and the jumping off point for many wanting to climb the volcano. The sound was off, although I think there were [English] subtitles. Not that it mattered -- I and my then-best friend (now husband) were sitting halfway down the bus, so we were just a wee bit too far to really see much.

Anyway, I finally caught it again this morning on the TBS cable channel, and the only reason I saw it was because I was absolutely captivated by Kerry Washington's character Chenille. Did you guys catch the girl's wardrobe??? Devastating! Check out the above still from the film. She's the fly girl 2nd from left with the red headscarf.

I've noticed her Washington a lot lately because of her work as spokesmodel for a cosmetics company (I think it's L'Oreal Paris). She has that unusual beauty that's remarkable precisely because it doesn't conform to the conventional look of so many other models out there. Sure, she has the flawless skin and prominent cheekbones the fashion and beauty industries absolutely covet, but there's something else about her -- perhaps a keen intelligence, a great sense of humor -- a certain quelque chose that's just brilliant.

Here's another photo of her. This emerald green is gorgeous on her, and the unique and eye-catching neckpiece just enhances her delicate beauty. (And I've no idea about the ice cream "cameo." I think it has something to do with an answer she gave during an interview regardign her favorite ice cream treat.)

Revisiting Obagi and laser treatments

Well, maybe I have to rethink this whole Obagi thing after all.

I went to a local medical spa this afternoon and had a nice, long consultation with one of their aestheticians. We went over my skincare concerns (acne, hyperpigmentation, the usual suspects women of color have to deal with), and she strongly recommended the Obagi Nu-Derm line. She said that the Neutrogena Facial Foam Wash I've been using isn't strong enough to address my skin problems. She also said that, from my description of the package I bought at the Belo clinic in Manila (I forgot to bring it with me to my appointment), I should be able to make it last for at least 4 months, if not more.

Big sigh of relief. The last thing I want to do is fork over hundreds of dollars a month on just my skincare program. I mean, I'm awfully vain and am willing to spend good money to achieve healthy skin, but seriously, if I have to decide between my rent and my face, uh, I think even I would prefer to have a strong roof over my head.

Anyway, I'll give the Obagi a try and see how it goes. Also, tomorrow night the medi-spa is going to have an open house at their facility, with wine and hors d'oeuvres and representatives from various laser and cosmetics/cosmeceutical companies such as La Roche-Posay, Obagi and Jane Iredale (a mineral makeup line). A bunch of my friends and I will be attending, and I'll be getting more detailed information about the various treatments the spa offers. Also, they'll be doing drawings and giving away coupons, so I'm holding off on signing up for any treatments until then in case I win something!

I'll post more re: my tentative foray into Obagi later. Also, the aesthetician recommended a laser treatment called ScanLite that uses an IRIDEX laser system, to cut down on hyperpigmentation on my face. In addition, she suggested Fraxel (there it is again!) to target past acne scarring. Treatment costs aren't negligible (i.e., they're freakin' expensive), so I'll have to determine what's best for my skin and my wallet.

But for now, I'll do the due diligence I wrote about yesterday and engage in some heavy research. In the meantime, tomorrow's Open House should be fun -- hey, at least they'll have food and wine!

Belo Medical Clinic visit, Obagi and hydroquinone

I am far from having a flawless face. I've been faithfully applying sunscreen every day of my life since my early 20's, but for various genetic and hormonal reasons, I've had long, painful bouts of acne since that time as well. (And no, the two are not connected.) There was a period of a few years in the late '90s when my face was calm, but it was mostly because of the birth control pill I was taking at the time.

Anyway, I have some minor acne scarring on my face as well as a few small moles called seborrheic keratosis. Depending on the weather and time of day, my face can be oily or combination. Otherwise, my skin texture is fairly good, sometimes even quite smooth.

While I was in the Philippines a few weeks ago, I made an appointment at the Belo Medical Clinic near Makati Medical Center. The clinic has a national reputation, as it treats quite a few celebrities, so I at least knew that I wasn't going to some neighborhood doctor with questionable credentials and experience. It wasn't cheap, but it's much cheaper than what it would cost here: the office visit was about P450, or US$10. Not bad, eh?

I ended up doing a glycolic acid facial and microdermabrasion. The doctor also recommended that I try Fraxel, a type of laser treatment that targets microscopic areas of the skin (hence the term fractional laser, or Fraxel). I was wary at first, as it involved not only a topical anaesthetic to be applied an hour before the actual procedure, but also a sedative that the attendant said might compromise my thinking post-op. Uhm. No.

I ultimately chose to cancel the treatment and get my money back after my husband sent me some research indicating that it's not the magic bullet the dermatologist at the clinic claimed it was. Also, according to the good doc, ideally I should have had 4 separate treatments to remove the scars from my face, but not only did I not have the time (treatments are generally spaced 2 weeks apart, and I had only two weeks total in the country), I also didn't want to spend the money. (Each treatment was going to be about P17,000, or US$350, which is half of what it costs in the U.S. but still pretty spendy.)

I would advise anyone considering Fraxel to engage in due diligence and research the procedure carefully. It's not for everyone, and the risks can be difficult to reverse. It can definitely improve your appearance, but I'm an advocate of always knowing what you're getting into before forking over your hard-earned money.

The facial and microdermabrasion were wunnnnnerful, though. I had two sessions of each, spaced a week apart, and they left my skin positively glowing and clean. Not a blackhead or whitehead in sight. Yes, the facial was painful at times (extractions are never fun, and I had plenty of work for the aesthetician), but so worth the effort. If I lived in Manila I'd probably do it at least once a month. And they weren't that expensive, either: I think the two treatments together were about US$70, with no tip required. (It is a medical clinic, after all.) I was a little apprehensive about the microdermabrasion, as I wasn't sure if it was going to be painful or not, but it really was a bit like a wand with a sponge at the end gliding across my face. I slathered on tons of sunblock after each treatment, as I was heading out into an afternoon sun each time and didn't want my "new" face to start hyperpigmenting. The effects lasted for days, and I loved the feel of my skin. I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a facial deep cleansing.

Lastly, I also bought a way-too-expensive "trial" kit of Obagi skincare products that the doctor suggested I try. I don't even want to say how much it cost, but I don't think it's worth it. The kit had a cleanser, toner, retinol treatment, eye cream, sunscreen, lightening cream, and a few other things I can't remember. Most of it consisted of Obagi products while the rest were Belo brand. I know lots of women swear by the stuff, but I just can't imagine spending hundreds of dollars every month on it, when surely there are equally good products for a fraction of the cost? So I can't really review it here, as I never did give it a good trial. Again, a lot of women love the line, but I would caution anyone who is considering going on the regimen to do so only under the supervision of their dermatologist.

By the way, note that one of the products in the Obagi line has hydroquinone, a well-known skin lightener. For more information on this potent ingredient, here's an article from Brownskin.net, a Web site devoted to skin concerns of women of color, created by Dr. Susan C. Taylor, a Philadelphia-based dermatologist. She also wrote a new book called Brown Skin: Dr. Susan Taylor's Prescription for Flawless Skin, Hair and Nails, which I'll review in the coming weeks.

Glorietta Mall bombing

The tragic bombing of Glorietta mall gives me great pause, and not merely because I was just there a few weeks ago and am only too aware of how crowded, how popular the area is for Manilenos and visitors alike on any given day, whether it's Friday afternoon or first thing Monday morning.

I pray for all the victims and their families and hope that those who survive remain hopeful and optimistic about the future. That they don't give up on our country and its people, that peace is always possible, and that life is and will always be beautiful. It's bad enough that Filipinos are killing each other on the streets every day, that the indifferent rich ignore the plight of their poorer neighbors, erecting physical and social walls between them so that they don't have to face the agony of the poor soul's wretched life. But to deliberately, so violently attack them, to hide behind the protection of a mask or a faceless group, smacks of cowardice and inhumanity.

I hope that Filipinos will move on, beyond this tragedy, and while honoring the dead and never forgetting their individual stories, they remember their own dreams for themselves, their families and their country, and continue to fight to fulfill them.

Olay's Definity moisturizer

One of the new products I've been trying of late is Olay's Definity Deep Foaming UV (SPF 15) Moisturizer. It's not cheap (I think I paid low US$20's for the bottle, which so far I've been using for two weeks), but it's not bad compared to so many department store brands. Olay's been getting fantastic reviews from everyone from Consumer Reports to Paula Begoun, the Cosmetics Cop, and I love that they're always coming up with new, state-of-the-art skin care lines.

The Definity line appears to be especially friendly to women of color, as it specifically promotes it as a treatment for women dealing with hyperpigmentation and dull skin tone. I love the Deep Foaming UV moisturizer as it provides the broad-spectrum sun protection I need for casual everyday use (I'm not normally out in the sun during the week save for the back-and-forth trips to the car and office), as well as the antioxidants that everyone should use to nourish their skin.

I used to have extremely oily, blemish-prone skin, and while I still have occasional breakouts (especially around That Time of the Month), they're pretty well contained nowadays. Also, as I live in a very dry climate, wintertime is a good time for me to start breaking out more emollient sunscreens. The Definity foam moisturizer slathers on very light (it comes out like a shaving foam but melts into the skin) and leaves a slight sheen on my face that disappears within a few minutes. Also -- and this could be the power of suggestion -- my skin does appear brighter after application. Always a good thing.

I would definitely recommend this to women with combination/oil skin needing a moisturizing sunscreen in colder, drier months. I haven't tried it with makeup (I'm experimenting with the very scary no-makeup approach right now, save for occasional applications of lip gloss and/or lipstick), but it should work beautifully under your usual makeup. I apply it all over my face, neck and decolletage every morning, and my skin immediately feels very soft.

I don't think it's available in the Philippines as of yet, although I've read in the papers that it will be soon. When I was there a few weeks ago, Olay's Total Effects line was making a big splash, with actress Gretchen Barretto serving as spokesmodel. (She was in a frequently-broadcast commercial where she boasted that the moisturizer worked so well, she actually did a TV interview sans makeup. Did I believe her? Heck no. But her skin was glowing. Or it could be the lighting.) I haven't tried Total Effects yet, but I did get a few samples from a couple of hotels I've stayed in recently, so I may try that out sometime in the future.

Assuming that I don't totally fall in love with Definity, that is.

Nivea Multiple Night Whitening Cream

While I was in the Philippines last month, I was floored by the enormous number of skin whitening products on drugstore and grocery store shelves. Even just fifteen years ago, the only beauty product I remember that specifically targeted skin whitening was San-Ing, a cheap Chinese import you could even buy at a neighborhood sari-sari store, and whose active ingredient was Sulfur. I tried it after a fair-skinned cousin recommended it, but she neglected to tell me to stay out of the sun. I'd applied to on my neck as a tester, and by the second day, I had a nasty, itchy rash that lasted for days.

Never again.

Anyway, I loved loved loved browsing through the store shelves, trying to finding the right skin lightening product (i.e., recognizable brand, inexpensive price, and yeah, attractive packaging). I would've loved Shiseido's White Lucent line, but, ahem, my wallet would scream anytime I was within a five-mile radius of their store counter.

I did, however, find a whole slew of Nivea products, and at a super-reasonable price (about P125 or so for the creams, or just under US$3). One of the active ingredients is something called White Pure Active, which supposedly "reduces your skin's pigmentation at its source." I brought home five pots of Nivea Multiple Night Whitening Cream, and I've been slathering it on my face, neck and decolletage every night ever since. So far, it's left my skin surprisingly smooth, considering how oily it often is. (Of course, this may have something to do with the fact that it's bone-dry out here in the high deserts of the western United States right now, what with winter just around the corner.) I've been using it for almost a month, and while this may simply be the power of suggestion, I do think that my skin tone has brightened somewhat.

I gather that one pot will last me about 6 weeks, so with four more in my linen closet, I'm safely stocked up until the next time I head back to the Old Country.

Why "Beauty in Mahogany?"

When I was a little girl growing up in the Philippines, my parents gave me two vintage (they were vintage then as well) Barbie dolls: a traditional one with deep blue eyes and jet-black, bubble-cut hair, and another with molded plastic hair in chestnut brown and hazel eyes. I had a preference for the former, and sometimes neglected the latter, whom my cousin and I referred to as Mahogany for her darker, Mediterranean-like looks. Not sure why we favored Traditional Barbie, but likely it had to do with the "real" hair as well as the fact that, unfortunately, Filipinas still equate fairness and mestizo looks with beauty, while the native kayumanggi look was (and still is) more often than not, disdained.

In any case, having grown up and learned to appreciate my glorious, golden skin color, I look back on Mahogany with fondness and am grateful to my parents for giving me a doll that better reflected my own look. Hence, Beauty in Mahogany.